Bert Pulitzer / XMI
Bert Pulitzer (the man whom, at 1997's neckwear industry luncheon, Ralph Lauren credited with teaching him about the neckwear business) has a favorite analogy he likes to use, "when a bull moose is attacked by a pack of wolves, it has two options - to stand and fight or to run-away. Since the moose has strong legs the smart move is to run and therefore survive."
It's a fitting analogy for Pulitzer, his strong point being his design talent and exceptional sense of color. And rather than fight some threatening pack of wolves over the years Pulitzer has chosen to move on to the next thing, recognizing that the best retailers appreciate a fashion edge. "We don't copy, we constantly seek newness," he maintains, which in the neckwear business these days means new textured solids, light weight wool, silk and wool blends and Pulitzer's unique use of color.
Although Pulitzer never really intended to enter the fashion industry (he grew up on the beach in Long Island, his summers on a 40-foot fishing boat, dreamt of becoming a lifeguard and only agreed to attend F.I.T. because it had a two year program and he'd be out fast), Pulitzer has gradually become a major player in the upscale furnishings market and is well on his way to making his mark in men's collection with the launch of his woven and knit sportshirt line.
To his credit, Pulitzer has sparked many revolutions in the menswear industry over the years. According to various sources, Pulitzer is personally responsible for the first cotton poplin outerwear jacket (at $150 retail in 1974, he sold 292 his first year; 50,000 by year five); the first use of Velcro in sportswear, the introduction of pinpoint oxford dress shirt $25 in 1973 when the benchmark was gant shirts at $8.50; the comeback of cotton dress shirts after decades of blends; the first knit sportshirt with woven collar; the first florals; jacquards prints and shaded printing, and the signature dress shirt body with an innovative sleeve set that follows the body instead of fight it.
Pulitzer looks toward progressing the market. "Change is the way our business stays fresh, change gives our customers at retail a reason to buy". He feels that embracing evolution is the only way to survive and grow in our changing climate. XMI is the company that can move the market.
